Monday, March 5, 2012

The Photo Album.

The other day, I had my halmoni bring out all her old photos, and so we sifted through them together.

I was expecting albums archived on some shelf somewhere, but what I instead got were a series of boxes. Inside one box were stacks of photos, neatly organized in plastic pouches, by theme. In another, a medal of honor issued to her by the Korean president for her years in education. In yet another, a series of my dad's jr. high school yearbooks, with names written out in Chinese characters.

She did have one album, which was from her retirement ceremony. This one was given to her by Ewha Women's University and consisted of a series of photos of people I don't know wearing hanboks, and her giving a speech in some fancy hotel banquet hall. She had apparently been Dean of the Graduate School at Ewha in the late 80's. That was news to me.

"You mean Dean of the English department."
"No, Dean of the Graduate School."
"Oh."

It's so strange seing pictures of your parents or grandparents from when they were younger, seeing the full life they lived. I've always seen my grandma as my grandma, and kind of forgot that she had a life outside of the context in which I know her. I've always known her post-retirement, and I used to wonder what she would do all day, living on her own.

But as I flipped through one photo after another, here she is living this full, vibrant life, full of friends and students and family. Here's a stack of her traveling the world with her fellow English professors, or teaching students, or studying abroad at U Mich, or attending some conference of graduate school deans. She is the only woman at the conference.

The photos are worn, and there's a mix of shapes and sizes. Some are sepia, some are black & white. Others are color but the vintage square print kind, with rounded corners. But mostly, there are the 3x5s. The photos are all curled in such a way, where the corners tinge upward. I wonder where these are taken, but she can't seem to remember the answer to each and every question I pose. Luckily, a few have dates and locations scribbled on the back.

I'm milling through a stack of travel photos. Here's one in front of the Notre Dame, another along the Thames. Hey, I recognize those pebbles on the beach - Nice! Some biergarten in Germany. I have never seen my halmoni take a sip of alcohol in my life. But here she is, holding up a litre of beer.

"And halmoni, is this Monaco?"
"No, I've never been to Monaco before."
Thirty-some-odd prints later, I casually flip one over, and it is indeed marked Monaco.
"Oh, I guess I have then."

There are many places I don't recognize. Stockholm, Cannes, somewhere in the Alps, parachuting in Thailand. Who is this person? 

There's a stack labeled with my dad's name. Of him in school uniform or hiking with his buddies, his friends are smoking. There are ones from grad school in North Carolina, even ones with long-ish hair, typical of the 70's. And then there's my favorite one:


There's just something about this that I love. A side of my dad I've never seen.

And then there are the engagement and wedding photos. How happy and young they look, and how lovely my mom was. They must have been younger than I am now. Who are these people?

And then I come to a Kodak envelope with my old address written on it. My family has lived in the same house since I was five. This was from before. I've never seen these before.

There's this photo of me when I was, like, five years old. I have no recollection of this moment or where this was taken, but it's just hilarious.


A freeze-framed shot of me, absolutely miserable, sitting next to my grandma and grand-aunt (great-aunt?). What a brat I must've been, probably refusing to say cheese for the camera, while my grandma smiled on. How my parents probably dragged my ass along anyway.

And then there's three year old me staring inquisitively at a peahen that had wandered into our backyard:


The childhood I don't remember. But how full of love.

Conspicuously missing is any trace of my grandfather. He's not there. But I'll get to that later.

Monday, February 27, 2012

First Impressions.

It's day 8 here in Korea, and I figured it's time to start documenting my journey. Rewinding to last week..


I'm still a bit jetlagged and feeling out of place here in Seoul. The language is different, the customs too. The food, I love. There is a Korean-ness in the faces and hair, and in the manner of dress. I wonder how obviously I stick out. I don't even need to open my mouth for natives to know I'm a foreigner.

Everywhere I look, I see ads for plastic surgeons. These before and after pictures, you wouldn't even believe. They're not the same person anymore. The homogenized look pervades the media as well. Translucent skin, permed hair with bangs, botoxed lips, obviously stitched double eyelids, even artificial bags under eyes. This makes me sad. Whatever happened to natural beauty?

It's weird being here living with family after being so used to independence in NYC. So very strange to have a curfew (self-imposed and out of respect to the elderly). I wonder sometimes if I'm too independent for my own good.

It's day 2 here in Korea, and it's time to go a-wandering. My favorite thing to do when I travel is to wander down random streets, getting lost and unlost as I weave in and out of various avenues, following whatever catches my eye. No map, no mobile GPS. I figure I'll make my way back somehow. And I always seem to.

Today, I decide to stay local and explore Gangnam (or what I think is Gangnam). So I head to the closest subway station (Shinsa) and walk down some major street. A street so major, I can't even cross it without heading underground. A Starbucks, 4 other coffee shops, and 7 cell phone stores later, I'm done with this major street and decide to get lost where I feel the most comfortable - the side streets. And so I hang right.

Eateries and boutiques! Now I'm in my element. I head in the general direction back from where I came, traversing all kinds of alleyways. I intuitively know to wander down this back street. Just like I intuitively knew to take that side detour to Shinsegae department store.. only to end up at a freeway entrance. And so I head back down another street.

I see my first pojangmatcha*, and on the awning, there is an illustration of a child and a bunny, clinking shot glasses. Oh good. Promoting alcoholism and the pounding back of sojus to the fingerpainting demographic. That's healthy.

I see a store, and as I make out the words, I realize it spells out Best All. A lofty claim, if there ever was one. It looks like a regular ole' 7-11 to me.

I finally make it to Shinsegae. I stay to browse a bit, but upon realizing that coat I was eyeing costs $1500, not $150, I make a beeline for the food court. Isabel Marant. I should've known. (My conversions are still a bit off.) Man, Koreans have cornered the market on all out consumerism/materialism. Logos, logos everywhere.

My favorite thing so far has to be the food. Oh, how I could go on and on about the food. The stews, the noodles, the desserts, the dumplings, the Korean bbq, the street food.. I can't get enough of it. The aromas waft through the streets and draw you in.

But what I really came to do is spend time with my grandma. It's been interesting so far. I'll write more on that later.


* Small tented eatery for street food / makeshift bar

Friday, February 24, 2012

Project Runway, Korea Edition.

Aka. In which I embark on an excursion of the economic stimulus variety.

Greetings, from Korea!

What have I been up to other than sitting in cafes, sipping on citrus tea and refreshing Twitter for the latest Knicks score writing? Since I am very easily distracted and in need of inspiration, I figured a little shopping was in order. And so I headed to the madness that is Dongdaemun. Wish you were here with me? Fear not, for there are pictures to be had. Journey with me.

We begin our trip at Heritory. Actually, this was last night in Myungdong, but who's counting?


Heritory. Because that is a word.


Marcia Chloe. Now that's legit. One step up from Abergrombie.
(We can't all be fancypants French lines formerly designed by offspring of Beatles.)


Feather duster chic. That's how they roll in the Dae Han Min Guk.


You too, cardigan? I lub Jejus too.


Finally. Something useful. Pacman earrings.


Just in time for my Friday night: guilty parties outrageous!


Will just let this one speak for itself. :)

And that concludes our tour of Dongdaemun. Until next time..

With love, 
E

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Time Out.

After 5 years at Google, it's time to take a break. I've opted for the Zack Morris method - the time out. Of stepping out of one situation, running around to shuffle things around, and then re-inserting yourself into the scene once you're ready. It's kind of really great in theory.



So one week from now, I will be on a plane to Korea. No idea how long I'll be there - maybe one month, maybe three - but I've booked a one way ticket to Seoul and have every intention of just feeling it out. Google is awesome for letting me do this.



Korea is not on my usual list of destinations. In fact, a friend of mine responded: "Wow, you'd actually want to live in Korea for a few months?" Or another: "Can you even speak Korean?" It's out of character, I know.

Why, why.. why exactly? Why?
  1. I could use a break. And a creative release. And to get my life priorities in order.
  2. I figured my parents were due another surprise. "Mother dubs me [Erika]-stop-spleening-me! because I am always spleening her."* It's been a year and a half since I casually dropped the bomb that I'd be moving across the country to my dream city, so I figured it was time.
  3. In a rare moment of clarity, I have a project idea. One that I feel strongly about.

Let me explain.

It started 3 weeks ago in a coffee shop. Having decided to take a wild, girlish fling at writing over a chai tea latte, I more or less word-vomited onto a few unassuming pages. (Poor, unsuspecting pages.) Something along the lines of:

Hmm.. maybe I should take a leave.
But what would I do on my leave?
Maybe I should go to Korea.
But what would I do in Korea?
Maybe I should interview my halmoni**
And document her life story..

(This is not inspired prose we're talking about here. I wasn't kidding about the word-vomiting. And then before I knew it, I had three pages of action items to make this happen. I am writing the words 'action item' in a non-work related context. Proof I deserve a break.)

Subsequent thought process:

Maybe I should do this. (You're crazy!)
I really ought to run with this. (Seriously, who does that?)
Let's be serious now. <wait a beat or two>
Totally gonna run with this! (Mee-chuh-suh.. mee-chuh-suh!)***

People have always told me I resemble my grandmother. I don't look like my parents. My brother may or may not be the male version of me, but I don't see it. But my grandmother.. The independence. The klutziness. How our third and fourth toes kind of stick together. I don't see the resemblance in the face - it's in the toes.

I've never known her life story. Bits and pieces, sure. I remember her eyes lighting up upon visiting me in college and seeing Haines Hall, sparking memories from her own time studying abroad at UCLA in the 50's. She taught English Linguistics at a women's university. I wonder what kind of professor she was. Or what happened to my grandfather after he was kidnapped (and killed?) by the North Korean army during the Korean War. How she suddenly found herself a single mother. How she was able to raise 3 kids on her own. How she came to learn 7 languages.

And so I've decided to take 3 months to explore this. Rarely do I have moments of clarity like this.

That week at work, first chance I got, I asked my manager for 3 months off. And after explaining my reasoning, and thanks to an awesome manager and wonderful company, I was approved for a leave.


I emailed my itinerary to my grandma the other week. And her response is so darling, I couldn't help but share:

Welcome, Erika!!

After arriving at Inchon Airport, take a bus going to “Marriott Hotel in kang Nam.” And get off at Marriott Hotel.  Then I’ll be there and wait for you.
      And ask in Korean, “Marriott Hotel ka yo?”   If he says “Yes”,  then add “Kang Nam e it nun Marriot Hotel ka yo?”
      Kang Nam is one of districts in Seoul and southern part of Seoul.  It takes one hour from Inchon to Kang Nam.
My cell number is “xxx—xxx—xxxx”, that is the same as my house phone number, just add xxx.

I’m very sorry that my reply is too late, because I didn’t check the e-mail for few days.
  Have a pleasant trip!

She is absolutely adorable. I cannot wait to do this.



* Please tell me someone got this reference!
** Grandmother in Korean
*** Crazy.. crazy!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Egg & the Urban Mercantile.

I've been trying to get back into cooking, for both health and financial reasons. Given that work has recently given me a health/lifestyle coach of sorts, I figure this is as good a time as any to set a few goals I intend to actually keep.

Today, I fried an egg. Scrambled, actually. Having been unable to locate the olive oil, I simply dropped the drippy contents of the egg into the (apparently not non-stick) frying pan. 

There, a home cooked meal.

A few minutes of shuffling around fluffy yellow and white stuff later, it occurred to me that perhaps I ought to have sprinkled a dash of pepper. Judging by the contents of my fridge from my last Trader Joe's run, I suppose I could've shredded up some gouda and mushrooms too. 

Bygones.

Still hungry, I stared at the apple in front of me that I grabbed from the Google microkitchen the other day.

Thank goodness for work food.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

MILTON.

How can I tell you everything that is in my heart. Impossible to begin. No, must begin. Meet Maira Kalman, my imaginary best friend forever (except she doesn't know it yet). 


She's who I would be if I were 60 and Jewish. (I wish.) We're kindred spirits, Maira and I.


Except I'm not as wise. Yet. 


Her dreams are my dreams. 



With many a day spent in the park with my pup.


I want that moment to be my life too. My complete life. Right down to the stationery store. A life without Misery Parades (unless accompanied by le Miserati).


And without having to admonishingly le sighhh to my pup: "Well, Susan, this is a fine mess you are in."


But accidents do happen.